Historically the livers of wild game were among the first parts of the animals to be consumed and were often eaten in the hunting camp. Wild hog livers are, to my taste, better than deer livers. They typically cook up softer and have a less harsh flavor. As with processing any parts of a wild hog, gloves should be worn when handling uncooked meat of any sort, including previously frozen sausage when you make breakfast paddies.
Being from the American South, and in particular from Georgia, a favorite meal is hog liver steamed with onions and served with or over grits. Should you not have access to grits, mashed potatoes is an acceptable substitute starch. For long term storage livers are best stored frozen in water. This eliminates freezer burn and preserves flavor.
In preparing your liver for frying, put on your gloves and wash it. Some skin the livers, but I do not. While the liver is still semi-frozen it will slice easily into uniform slices. After you have it sliced let it drain while you dice up one large Spanish onion. In a plastic bag mix flour, salt and pepper. Heat a skillet that contains sufficient Canola or other oil to cover the slices. Flour the liver by shaking the pieces in a plastic bag, and when the oil is hot, drop the slices into the oil. Fry until golden brown and remove. The liver will not be completely done. Frying just browns it. Allow the liver to drain. Pour the oil from the frying plan leaving the pan drippings. Put the onions in the hot pan and stir. Return the liver to the pan and add a cup of water. Turn the liver slices from time to time and cook until done. No blood should run when you stick or cut the liver. When the liver is done put it on a serving plate and reserve the pan drippings and onions for a gravy to go over grits or mashed potatoes.
This goes well with a full-bodied red wine followed by a small glass of Port if this is served as an evening meal. For breakfast a good strong coffee is a suitable accompaniment.
Tree Lounge tree stands are robust, stable stands that can give decades of good service. As the hunting population is aging, more of these stands are showing up on E-bay and other places as used stands, but without the original Owner’s Manual. Users of these stands can get in serious trouble if they either assemble the stands improperly, try to climb too small a tree, attempt to stand on the fabric seat, overstress the stand because they are too heavy or any of a number of other causes. The problem is that the companies that made the stands are no longer in business and the manuals are not available. These are copyrighted products and cannot be reproduced directly without permission of the copyright owner, whoever that might be.
To help alleviate this problem I have produced a YouTube video at: http://youtu.be/ztj0VY1Rk_c which shows some pages of the manual as well as extracts of two previous YouTube videos that I did. These showed how to put the stand on a tree and how to backpack it. The easiest way to find these is to Google “Hovey Tree Lounge video” and that will bring up these as well as hunts that I did with the stands. The most recent video is deficient in that it does not have sufficient resolution for a person to be able to read the 20-items listed on the Caution sheet that is shown. These 20 items are listed below, along with my comments.
DO NOT BECOME A HUNTING STATISTIC!
“Climbing 20 to 30 feet or more above the ground is inherently dangerous because a fall from that height can produce serious injury or death. It isn’t possible to completely eliminate the danger of falling to the ground. You can minimize that danger by reading and viewing your Tree-Lounge owners manual and video tape. Follow the warnings and instructions and use common sense when using your Tree Lounge.”
I trust that statement got your attention. Below are the 20 cautions that they mentioned along with my comments.
1. Always grip the Tree-Lounge with both hands when your weight in not in the seat! Failure to do this can cause the Tree Lounge to slip down the tree trunk dislodging the hunter. (If no weight is on either the foot piece or upper piece with the sling seat, the Tree Lounge will grip the tree very weakly. When you take your feet out of the foot piece, for example, most of the time it will immediately slide down the tree until retained by the two straps that connect it to the upper piece with the seat.)
2. Always keep enough weight on the front side of the Tree Lounge to keep the “Lever-Grip” action activated. Failure to do this can cause the Tree Lounge to slip down the trunk of the tree dislodging the hunter. (See comment on no. 1.)
3. Never use the Tree Lounge without a safety harness, wear the Tree Lounge safety Harness from the time you begin your ascent until you return to the ground.
4. Do not use the Tree Lounge if you weigh more than 280 pounds. (People are seemingly getting larger every day. At the time my videos were made I weighed 185 pounds. The sling seat and the bow platform took my weight with no apparent problems, but all mechanical things will someday fail. Check your stand before each season and do not leave it out between seasons.)
5. Do not climb over 5-feet high until you have practiced and understand all facets of using the Tree Lounge. (Certainly do not take it out and under the pressure to kill a deer stick it on a tree for the first time. The removable bars that grip the tree go on top of the foot and upper pieces, and the straps must be put in the middle of the foot piece so that it can be retrieved when you start to descend from the tree.)
6. Do not climb trees unsuitable for the Tree Lounge. (Bad trees include those that are dead, crooked, swollen at the base, have obstructing limbs or knots, contain insect or animal nests, weak root attachments or have many smaller trees growing close to the larger tree’s trunk that will hang up the stand when you try to descend.)
7. Do not climb too high with the Tree Lounge. (The limit here is the diameter of the tree. As the tree becomes smaller the angle of the Tree Lounge decreases from about 80 degrees to below 45 degrees. Below 45 degrees the ability of the crossbars to hold the stand on the tree is decreased. Ultimately the stand will slip or you will reach a point where you cannot climb or go down.)
8. Do not climb with equipment. Always use your equipment cord to raise or lower your gun (unloaded), bow, pack or other equipment so that your balance and the gripping action cannot be adversely affected. (I use a long length of cord on a spool. On this I daisy-chain tie each piece of equipment on the same cord so that I raise them one after another when I get the stand in position. The last item up should be the gun or bow. This way the gun is less likely to be accidently knocked to the ground or fall from the gun rest while you are positioning the other items or bolting on accessories. Also, the less weight that you have on the stand when you climb, the easier it will be to manage.)
9. Do not use improper climbing techniques. Always use good judgment when climbing. (Don’t try to climb super fast or descend too fast. If you attempt to go down more than about 4-inches at the time your legs will be so bound up that you cannot raise them enough to free the foot piece to continue your descent.)
10. When climbing always be sure limbs, trees or other obstructions do not interfere with the “lever-grip” action of the Tree Lounge. If you cannot avoid limbs, trees, or other obstructions, descend and select another tree. (I once climbed a dead palm tree in the dark. Palms are weakly rooted anyway, and as soon as I discovered what I had done, I relocated to another tree. Tree Lounge stands are not easy for one person to put on a tree and there is the temptation to leave it on a bad tree and not move to another. Be safe and move the stand.)
11. Do not climb to a point where the Tree Lounge or the foot climber are below a 45-degree angle. (See comment on 7.)
12. Never try to move the back brace of the tree lounge or foot climber when climbing. (This would be an invitation to instant disaster. You cannot support the weight of the stand and the gear you have on it with one hand while attempting to hold it against the tree with your body. The worst result would be for you and both elements of the stand go crashing down the tree because you are attached to the upper part of the stand by the safety strap. The dynamics of this would probably have you hitting the ground head first. The next worse result would be for you to be suspended from the tree with the safety belt under your armpits, 35 pounds of aluminum hanging over your head and the foot piece still gripping the tree holding the entire assembly off the ground by two 1-inch nylon straps. The only recovery here is to pull yourself up the strap, grip the tree with both legs and arms, release the safety strap button and slide down the tree ripping and skinning flesh and bark as you go. Not good.)
13. Learn to use your wedge properly before attempting to climb more than 5-feet high. (This wedge is a 90-degree triangle. The base of the triangle is furthest from the ground the right-angle away from the tree and the inclined side against the trunk. Place the wedge above the bar and attach it to the tree with the bungee cord. Supporting the upper seat member with both hands push forward away from the tree raising it slightly to position it on the wedge to help level the stand. The stand will still be at a down angle, but the gun holders should now hold the gun without any problems. The bow platform may then be adjusted to where it is level by repositioning the bolts in the appropriate adjustment holes on either side of the bow platform.)
14. Before climbing, study, understand and practice the proper procedure for turning around in your Tree Lounge. (Use your knees rather than your feet to keep from ripping through the fabric of the sling seat. Even if you do not bow hunt, the bow stand option is very helpful in providing a step to get into the stand from the ground as well as in repositioning yourself in the stand.)
15. Keep fingers, hand and feet out of tree-gripping sections of the Tree Lounge. (I can’t quite envision how that might happen, but you sure do not want any body parts between those bars and the tree.)
16. Never stand up in the Tree Lounge seat. (The synthetic fabric is not designed for that kind of stress. I suspect that it would rip long-ways dropping you out feet first through the seat. That would be an exciting event.)
17. Do not climb utility poles or hunt when lightning may occur. (You can climb a metal pole with a Tree Lounge, and I know of some people who change street lights that way. However, in hunting situations you are surrounded by a lot of metal which will make a fine lightning rod.)
18. Never hunt from a Tree Lounge while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. (Never hunt, period, while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.)
19. Never lend or sell your Tree-Lounge to anyone that does not know now to use it property or has not read the Owner’s Manual and viewed the safety and use videos. (This was a nice thought, but many of the stands that are being sold do not have their manuals with them.)
20. Persons who do not have enough mental or physical ability should not use the Tree Lounge. (These are heavy stands, and it takes physical strength to put them on trees and climb with them. It goes much easier if two people are there to put the stands on the trees so that one can support the back of the seat section while the other adjusts the stand on the tree and attaches the cross bar.)
Sad fact is that most of us guys in hunt camps across the country are over 50 and for a lot of us, the half-century mark was reached 20 or more years ago. Twice within the past few years I have had friends who have suffered heart attacks in hunt camps that resulted in their deaths. I was not in the camps at the time, but that did not make the events any less telling. Both of these instances were similar in that the person having the attack was an authority figure, insisted that he was all right and that others should continue their hunts while he stayed in camp. This was a macho thing, and may have cost them years of life.
All of us are going to die of something, sometimes; but there is no since in rushing the process. Common to both of these events was that the guy having the attack was the senior member of the hunting party, he had a son or some younger hunt member that he wanted to take a deer and had made a special effort to go on this hunt. I do not know if either thought that this might be their last time in the woods, but I do not think this was the case. On the most recent of the two hunts there had been a drive down with a small trailer and a set-up in the rain. Complicating the situation was that the guy also had pneumonia that he apparently caught the previous week.
That morning as they were getting ready to go out before dawn, the older gentlemen said that he was not feeling well. As it turn out he had been, and was having, chest pains to the extent that had taken one or more nitroglycerin tablets. By the time his son returned some hours later after having shot a deer, his dad was in bad shape indeed. The son called his relatives who lived 4-hours away in another state, told them that his dad was seriously ill and they immediately left to come down to the camp.
The property owner, about 100 miles away, received a telephone call from a member of the gentleman’s family. He asked if anyone had called 911, the local emergency number, for an ambulance. No one had. That call was made while everyone was still in route to the camp and an ambulance with an EMT crew arrived to transport the stricken hunter to a local hospital. Almost simultaneously the landowner arrived and took care of the son and brought him to town. Within a relatively short time after his arrival at the local hospital the patient, still conscious, was air-transported to a regional hospital with a cardiac unit. He died within the next 12 hours.
Because they kept in contact by cell phone, the out-of-state members of the family were told to go directly to the regional hospital where they were at the time of the death. The landowner took the son hunting again the next day. This was more to take his mind off his father’s illness than anything. The landowner was informed of the death and waited until the other members of the family arrive before retrieving the son and telling him that his dad had died. With everyone there, the camp was cleaned out and the family started on their trip back home. Sometimes during these events the deer was cleaned and taken to a local processor.
As is apparent, hunt camps are terribly inconvenient places to die. If you or some member of the hunt party starts feeling symptoms of chest pains or even things that are apparently minor like unexplained pain in the shoulder or tightness in the throat, get you/them to a hospital. Once past the mid-40s that bad heartburn may well be something much more serious than an overdose of chili powder or cinnamon. It is better to be thought of as a “Nervous Nelly” and be alive than be a “Macho Man” and dead. It is also considerably less trouble to everyone if you can get someone to take you to a treatment facility before things get critical. With strokes and heart attacks minutes can mean the difference between survival with good outcomes and death. Don’t waste these minutes which will be the most valuable time of your life.
There is a need to provide owners’ manuals for those who are purchasing used Tree Lounge tree stands. Out of a concern for public safety, I have produced an audio-visual version for the original U.S.-made stands as a YouTube video which includes some pages from an original 1993 manual. This is now posted at: http://youtu.be/ztj0VY1Rk_c.
The original manuals are copyrighted, and I cannot just copy them without violation of existing copyright unless I make a publishing arrangement with the copyright owner. As all of the companies that produced the stands like AHE, Inc. and its successor, CESSO, L.L.C., (and maybe others) are now out of business, I do not know who owns the rights to the manuals or if they perished when the company’s assets were sold. If you believe that you own the copyrights to Tree Lounge manuals please contact me, and I will come to an agreement with you in regards to their re-publication and sale.
Tree Lounge stands were/are very strong, safe stands if used correctly. However, there are risks for inexperienced users in regards to adjusting the climbing bar, attempting to climb too small a tree, not using the leveling wedge correctly as well as the rather disconcerting fact that the foot bar will very often slip down the tree when the climber removes his feet. When the foot-piece falls, hefty safety straps on each side will retain it and allow it to be pulled back up, provided that the new owner attached the straps correctly when he climbed the tree. If he did not he might find himself 30-feet up a tree facing a very perilous descent with his foot piece resting quite comfortably at the base of the tree.
Items that I have to date are a Catalogue from 1999 (fairly late versions of the old model stands and accessories), Tree-Lounge Owner’s Manual from 1993, yellow Caution sheet and instruction sheets for the Bow Hunting Adapter, Gun Holder and Bow Holder. If you have more recent manuals for later-model Tree Lounge stands or instruction sheets for other accessories and no longer need them, please contact me at http://www.hoveysmith.com, and I will add these to the video/s.
My concern in doing this is to again make this information readily available to the public and add information based on my experiences with the stands so that new Tree Lounge owners can have safe climbing experiences with their stands. This video is now available at: http://youtu.be/ztj0VY1Rk_c.
On a recent hunt in Illinois a group of Alabama hunters was sharing the lodge with me. After the first evening one of the hunters remarked, “After about 20 minutes in the stand I had to get down and go buy some electrically heated socks.” As the temperature was in the single digits and the wind was blowing about 15-20 mph., he was being exposed to below 0-degree wind chill in his tree stand and obviously needed more or better clothes.
Those who live in the more Northern states are accustomed to these temperatures as a normal part of Winter life and hunting. In fact, 0 degrees might even be thought warm compared to deep winter temperatures of -20 degrees or colder in the northern states of the U.S., Canada or Alaska. These very cold temps obviously require specialized clothing, but we Southern hunters do not often own severe-weather clothing and have only occasional use for it. From a point of view of practicality, most of us have to somehow make do with what we have when temperatures get around 0. This can occasionally happen even in the deep South. I once did a hunt on Georgia’s Cumberland Island when it was just a few degrees above 0 and portions of the marsh froze. On this hunt there were only six deer taken, and I took two of them with handguns simply because I had the gear to keep me warm. Some hunters never left camp.
One of the things that I learned well when I lived in Alaska was the military admonition to wear your clothing loose and in layers. In dry weather even light-weight cotton hunting clothes will work if you wear enough of them, keep them loose and have a hard-woven shell to break the wind. Cotton does O.K. so long as it is dry, but quickly fails to offer protection if it is wet from rain/wet snow or soaked with sweat. Wool or synthetic fleece is far superior.
Starting from skin out, put on your cotton underwear and on top of this invest in a fleece top and bottom and head-neck covering. Usually these are sold separately and purchase them one at the time if you must. They are now inexpensively priced from Cabelas’ and other mail-order outlets. This will run about $60 for the three-piece outfit. Over this you can put on a set of flannel pajama bottoms or lounge pants and a heavy cotton long sleeved T-shirt. Then put on your cotton camo pants and shirt. On top use what you have for pull-over wool or synthetic sweaters, then your insulated hunting suite, a top camo jacket with a hood, fleece cap, billed cap and finally your hunter orange vest and gloves.
One type of glove that is found in more northern states is a wool, or synthetic fiber, mitten-glove where the front of the mitten pulls back to free the fingers for finer work, such as pulling a trigger. These are excellent when worn with a thinner glove underneath. This provides two layers of protection for the fingers. Further warmth can be gained by pulling the fingers back and balling them up in a fist inside the glove or putting the hands in a pocket.
The above will take care of your body and head, but your feet are likely the first things to give you problems. I am lucky in that I purchased a pair of Sorrels while I lived in Alaska and still have them. These boots have rubber bottoms, felt boot liners and leather tops. These boots with a set of wool or synthetic fleece socks will keep my feet warm even when sitting in a tree stand for five hours or so. Here is one case where you will be well advised to get some specialized cold-weather foot gear. You can adapt somewhat by taking something to wrap your feet in while on stand. This sort of works if you are sitting on the ground, but is dangerous in a tree stand, least you get tangled in your foot-wrap and fall out while making a quick movement to shoot a deer. Your best alternative is to move from a tree stand to the ground, and cover your feet with dry leaves.
Tent and permanent blinds can make hunting much more comfortable and even admit the possibility of having heat in the blind. This will help, but is not always possible. I have hunted in duck blinds with four inches of frozen water in the bottom of the blind which made footing dicey, but the wooden sides of the blind kept the wind off so I stayed put and did not attempt to stand when I shot.
What you wear must also take into account the condition of any snow or rain. The Eskimos have a very large number of words to describe snow/ice conditions. English is not so rich in language, but there is a striking difference between flakes of well crystalized dry snow falling and snow-ball size masses of wet sloppy stuff that melts when it hits you. For conditions where there is dry snow, fur works very well for exterior garments, but for wet snow you also need an exterior rain suite. Fortunately the wet snow is present when the temperatures are around freezing down to about 20 degrees F. Colder that that and the snow is more nearly dry, and the colder it gets the dryer the snow becomes. As I did in Illinois, I can successfully hunt with a flintlock rifle in dry snow, but wet snow presents real problems for flintlocks and other muzzleloaders.
The takeaway here is even us Southern hunters need to accumulate a little bit of cold-weather gear if we are to comfortably hunt in moderately cold conditions. Fleece underwear and good felt-lined Sorrels or L.L. Bean’s Maine Guide Boots are worth putting on your Christmas list. If you can’t get out in the woods, you can’t kill deer.
Those who are looking for a reasonably priced off-the-rack flintlock rifle to participate in Pennsylvania’s and other states flintlock muzzleloading seasons/hunts can reasonably consider Traditions PA Pellet rifle as an effective alternative to higher-priced guns. Flintlocks made by Davide Pedersoli and sold by Dixie Gun Works and other companies now start at $600 and up with custom-made guns often selling for over $3,000.
Although the $400 black synthetic stocked PA Pellet rifle that I recently used on an Illinois deer hunt is not as attractive as its higher-priced alternatives, it is a reliable flintlock gun that performs well with either loose black powder or granular Pyrodex or Hodgdon’s Triple7even. As might be expected from its name, it will also shoot Pyrodex and Triple7even pellets if a little priming powder is teased back of the pellets when the pan is charged with FFFFg.
My first experiences with factory flintlock rifles began with Thompson/Center Arms’ Hawken which used the same coil-spring lock as their percussion gun. My gun had a warped pan cover that allowed prime to dribble from the pan if the gun was tilted to the right. Replacing the frizzen with a new one solved this problem, but an even greater problem was that the coil-spring lock would not reliably spark.
This problem also extended to the modernized Thompson/Center Arms’ Firestorm flintlock, which I experimented with for over a year. A partial solution was to reinforce the strength of the coil spring by putting one or two lock washers on the rod back of the lock’s mainspring. This helped, but flint life with these guns was short. For sure-fire results I had to use fresh flints and retouch them every few shots with a small knapping hammer.
Gregg Ritts, then the CEO of Thompson/Center Arms told me, “This is just part of shooting flint.” Sorry Gregg, but good flint guns will shoot a half-dozen times or more before the flint has to be touched. While it is always good practice to start a hunt with a fresh flint, hunting guns need to shoot more reliably that that, and the new versions of the flintlocks used on Traditions’ PA hunter’s leaf-spring lock performs much better than the Thompson/Center coil-spring locks or the similar locks used on Lyman’s flintlocks.
Although less expensively made than Thompson/Center’s guns, the plastic stocked Traditions PA Pellet rifle was more reliable than the two Thompson/Center Arms rifles or even the Lyman flintlock. When it comes to deer killing, functionality is much more important than appearance. My hunts with the PA Pellet rifle demonstrated that the gun could be used in snowy conditions and still function with either loose powders or Pyrodex or Triple7even pellets, provided that some reasonable precautions were taken.
In my new E-book Shooting and Maintaining Your Muzzleloader (Amazon.com and other sources) I have a chapter titled “Twenty-one steps to flintlock success,” and following are some shooting tips that particularly pertain to the PA Hunter.
1. Remove the butt plate from the rear of the stock and add lead shot or sand with wadded plastic bags to increase the weight of the gun until it balances about the carry point. This increased weight makes the gun much more comfortable to shoot and carry as well as decreases the chance of it slipping out of your lap as you sit in your tree stand.
2. Either you or a gunsmith should disassemble the lock and use a fine oil stone to polish any burrs from the lock parts that increase friction by scrubbing against the lock plate.
3. Have a gunsmith recess the crown of your barrel back about 3/8ths inch by drilling that portion of the barrel smooth so that saboted or lead bullets will be easier to load straight without damaging the bases of the projectiles. This is $20 very well spent.
4. Purchase cut-agate flints. These are available from Thompson/Center as four-packs. These are usually found on peg-board displays with other muzzleloading products.
5. Thompson Center also sells a ring of flintlock tools, including a pan brush and vent prick. These are worth having for cleaning your pan and brushing excess prime from the sides of the pan.
6. Buy or beg some FFFFg black powder priming powder. Hodgdon’s Triple7even FFFg granular powder will sort of work, but gives slower ignition than black powder. Using as much as 5-grains per prime, a one-pound can will last for more than 1,000 shots. Get two cans while you are at it. These will keep forever if kept dry, and you never can tell when our supply of black powder might be terminated by over-protective legislators.
7. Use a leather cover to help protect your lock from rain or snow. These are available from Dixie Gun Works. (Go ahead and purchase their catalogue for $5.00. It contains a wealth of information about muzzleloaders and black-powder guns.)
8. De-grease the barrel and lock before you shoot the gun for the first time and take a small bottle of rubbing alcohol with you in the field to clean the frizzen as needed.
9. The PA Pellet will shoot patched round balls (may be required for some hunts), saboted bullets or lead bullets. Saboted bullets will generate higher pressures and promote more complete combustion of the powder, although they are an SOB to load in cold weather. Carry your bullets and powder in plastic tubes or quick loaders on your body to keep them warm.
10. Select or grind some screwdrivers to fit the slots of the PA Pellet rifle’s screws and keep these with the gun.
11. You will need either a piece of leather or lead to pad the flint in the jaws of the cock. You can either pound a lead ball flat and or cut a piece of leather from a worn-out bag, shoe or belt.
12. Loads that work best in this gun will have from 85-110 grains of loose powder behind a patched round ball or 100 grains of Pyrodex or Triple7even pellets. Although this is a .50-caliber gun, it will shoot well with either .45 or .50 caliber pellets. I prefer bullets that weigh about 300 grains, although the gun does reasonably well with 240-grain saboted bullets or the 370-grain Thompson/Center MaxiBall.
13. After shooting remove the breech plug for ordinary cleaning using the Allen wrench that comes with the gun. If it does not come out, it can be left in and the gun cleaned in a bucket of soapy water and drawing the water up the barrel with a tight-fitting patch just like old-time muzzleloaders have been cleaned for hundreds of years.
14. Each time you get through using the gun, even if you fire only a single shot, the barrel needs to be washed out with soapy water and dried. Each time you clean the gun screw out the vent plug and clean it. Its threads should be lubricated with a high-temperature grease. This is a small part and is easy to drop it down a sink drain.
15. Although the PA Pellet rifle has been in the Traditions line for a several years it is a low-volume seller and production might be stopped at any time. It is prudent to buy some spare parts that might be easily lost or damaged.
These should include.
1. Spare frizzen
2. Vent hole liner
3. Upper hammer jaw
4. Jaw screw (threads get stripped on this part)
5. Lock plate screw and washer
6. Barrel wedge
16. When shooting pellets, take your prick or the arm of a large safety pin and push about half-a-pans-worth of FFFFg prime into the back of the barrel. The priming pan should be a little more than half full, but not blocking the vent hole which should be opened. If it is packed full it will burn like a fuse and retard ignition.
17. Flintlocks (aka. flinchlocks) throw a bright ball of flame up in front of the master eye, and it is always best to shoot with the gun well braced against your body, a tree or something. Shoot from any sort of expedient field rest as might be available.
18. Practice with your gun. Shooting flint is something of an art where you learn that you must keep your powder level in the pan, pay attention to the weather, keep your lock dry, follow through after you pull the trigger and learn to master involuntary jerks as you shoot the gun.
19. Until you really feel confident with your gun, restrict your shots to about 50 yards. Well practiced flintlock shooters can make hits at any range, but beginners need to start short and then shoot long as they gain more experience.